It all seems so long ago. We took a taxi down to Portsmouth: it sounds mad, but for for us the train fare would have been significantly more – and the train wouldn’t have come to our door when we wanted it. Mustafa, our friendly driver, was unable to work out where the hell he was supposed to go to drop off passengers at the ferry terminal, and I have to say it was completely obscure to me, too. When we finally stopped, outside the ‘departure lounge’ but evidently behind the wrong fence, we were approached by one of those people who should never be given a peaked hat. A normal human being would have said something like “You’re supposed to go over there”, but this lady’s opening sally was “Right, I must have this moved – now. It’s security.” Have a nice day, there.
The crossing, overnight, was not too bad. We went in the most upmarket of the ferry’s restaurants, which was OK though the food didn’t quite come up to the promise held out by the decor and the waiters. We had been too late to book a cabin, and had to sleep in reclining chairs, which wasn’t great, but wasn’t as bad as it might have been. Wandering round the boat early in the morning I was suprised at the places some people had picked out to kip down in instead of their allotted seat – under the main stairs?
At St Malo we picked up a hire car without particular difficulty (I’d found it almost impossible to find out in advance which of the hire companies in the town actually had cars at the ferry terminal – only two out of the six or so do – Avis and EuropCar if you’re interested). One potential problem with our plan was that the ferry dropped us off in St Malo, a little the worse for wear, quite early in the morning, while we couldn’t get into our apartment in Dinan until late afternoon. In the event, it wasn’t really a problem: we spent a pleasant day visiting (revisiting in some cases) St Malo, or St Smello as the recorded commentary on the tourist train would have it.
At Dinan we luckily drove to exactly the right car park and found the place in the Rue de l’Horloge easily: finding Mme Dabare our landlady to collect the key was not so easy. The directions we had took us to a little tunnel and told us to ring at the last door just before we emerged. There was no door at the end of the tunnel, and trying the door at the near end yielded no results. What the directions should have said was: come out the tunnel at the other end, cross the small shopping centre, but don’t go out the obvious way, instead taking the steps to the left and the path that follows, where the door to Mme Dabare’s apartment is behind you, concealed by a wall and a flower bed.
It was a remarkable apartment, though: sixteenth century, including a big panelled room hanging out over the cobbled street, right by the old clock tower (thoughtfully organised not to strike between the hours of 11 at night and seven in the morning). We could give tourists a surprise by suddenly opening the window and leaning out when they were trying to take a picture of the house: if we left the windows open we could get the full benefit of the hurdy gurdy man, traditional Breton musicians, and, er, Andean flute players who entertained the streams of tourists.
Mme Dabare herself was a most friendly and helpful lady, though she spoke no word of English. I was gratified by the amount of operable French I seemed to have retained: I even spontaneously came up with vitraille when remarking on the decorated windows in our bedroom (the girls said they were glad they hadn’t got our four-postered room because the stone knight’s head on the wall and the mysterious hole containing, if you peered in, a crucifix, would have affected their sleep).
Mme Dabare’s own apartment was directly connected to ours by a door which she urged us to knock on if we needed anything. Indeed, she invited us to come round for dinner one evening, in that non-specific way which leaves things in the air.
Dinan is a great place to wander round – there’s always some new little park or fragment of the walls, or quaint old street. Down the steep Rue Jerzual, lined with nice shops and restaurants, you get to the Port of Dinan – a small river port on the river Rance, full of even more restaurants and amazingly picturesque; the city walls are behind with the Jardin Anglais just showing at the top, while the river is crossed by a high viaduct. It’s possible to do day trips up here from St Malo, but not alas the other way round. We did go on a boat in the other direction: above Dinan the river was canalised by Napoleon so that boats could get to any of three ports on the Atlantic coast, where they had a better chance of evading the British blockade. The two gentlemen operating the boat gave us a commentary on the way out and then got out the music box and sang traditional songs on the way back.
More later.